The Sportmax Fall-Winter 2024 Collection comes to life through the gaze of the singer Nico and the atmosphere of her famous album ‘Camera Obscura’. Gerard Malanga, a poet and assistant to Andy Warhol, described the imagery thus: ‘Nico’s eyes seem to guard a great mystery which, hidden in aloofness, they do not want anyone to know exists. Whether or not a mystery is there, the eyes with the enigma of their absence from what surrounds them eclipse the perfection of features and form to add great magnetism’.
Equally powerful is the magnetism of Eighties music icons like Nico and Grace Jones, Debbie Harry, Annie Lennox and Siouxsie Sioux. These charismatic women are celebrated with prints inspired by album covers, adorning shirts, dresses, jackets and knits.
A futuristic vision, elongated silhouettes flaunt sculpted shoulders and waists defined by layering, with belts and contrasting textures.
Oversized outerwear features alongside tailored blazers, ultra-slim coats and knitted mini capes to be thrown over or worn alone, once again shifting the emphasis to the waistline.
The body is emphasized with the resolve of a Helmut Newton muse. Bustier-style dresses and jackets take their cue from the art of corsetry, with sophisticated geometric cuts, padding and crinolines.
The harmonious colour palette mingles shades of black, grey mélange and navy blue, with dashes of red, royal blue, white and nude. In a nod to ‘Blade Runner’, the austere sensuality of a new Rachel ripples through a past that has its eyes on the future, pairing high-tech fabrics with tailoring, patent finishes and PVC details.
Just as Lou Reed dedicated his song ‘Femme Fatale’ to Nico herself, this ‘Venus in Furs’ is dressed in body conscious dresses and boleros. Femininity gets a glamorous twist with lurex fringes and layered transparent embellishments. There are also big pleats inspired by origami techniques.
In this world of cross-cultural influences, boxing shorts in technical fabric or black leather with matching shirts put a sporty spin on the ‘Buffalo’ style: a counter culture created in the 80s inspired by American and English sartorial histories. The look encompasses culotte shorts or curved leg trousers, through to shirts worn with patent leather cowboy-style neckties.
In accessories, the silhouette is softened by round-toe Mary Janes, while classic cowboy boots can be seen through the end of pants. The new structured bucket bag, in patent leather with a metal handle, opens to reveal a tiny vintage-style mirror.
The music, ‘L’insonnia delle rondini’ (‘The swallows’ insomnia’) was composed by Teho Teardo.